![\"afghanistan.jpg\"](\"http:\/\/www.asianinny.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/11\/afghanistan.jpg\")
<\/p>\nWhen Lonely Planet was hitting the Asia overland trail in the 1970s, Afghanistan was known for its dramatic mountain scenery and the unparalleled hospitality of its people. At the turn of the 21st century the country<\/p>\n
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Women at Shrine of Hazrat Ali, also known as Blue Mosque, in Mazar-e Sharif
\nPhotographer: Stephane Victor<\/p>\n
When Lonely Planet was hitting the Asia overland trail in the 1970s, Afghanistan was known for its dramatic mountain scenery and the unparalleled hospitality of its people. At the turn of the 21st century the country was more synonymous with war and terrorism, the picture of a failed state. The fall of the Taliban regime in 2001 and the subsequent reconstruction attempts have done much to address this view, but in early 2007 Afghanistan\u2019s future remained on a knife-edge.<\/p>\n
Weather
\nAfghanistan has a four distinct seasons. There\u2019s fine weather in spring (March to May) and the country blooms, but rain and melting snow can make many roads difficult to traverse. Summers (June to August) can be blisteringly hot everywhere except the mountains \u2013 Herat, Mazar-e Sharif, Jalalabad and Kandahar all swelter, but Kabul, Bamiyan and Faizabad enjoy pleasant, cool nights. Sandstorms at this time can affect air travel. Autumn (September to November) is one of the best times to visit with pleasant dry weather, and plenty of delicious Afghan fruit. From the end of November, winter sets in, and snow is common across much of the country. Travel in the mountains is particularly tricky at this time, with some remote regions cut off from transport links completely.<\/p>\n
When to go
\nAssuming that the political climate allows you to make a trip, the most pleasant time to explore Afghanistan is spring or autumn, in particular April to early June and September through October. In spring, north Afghanistan turns from dusty ochre to bright green, as the desert and hills spring into life and are studded with blooms of flowers. Autumn is harvest time and brings the best of the Afghan fruit \u2013 melons from the north, grapes from the Shomali Plain and fat pomegranates from Kandahar.<\/p>\n
Summers can be blisteringly hot at lower altitudes, with cities like Herat, Mazar-e Sharif, Jalalabad and Kandahar sweltering in temperatures topping 40\u00b0C. The mountains mitigate this heatwave, and Kabul, Bamiyan and Faizabad are all more manageable at this time, and their altitude blesses them with deliciously cooler nights. June to September is the best time to head to the higher mountains \u2013 much of Badakhshan (including the Wakhan Corridor) is inaccessible for the rest of the year due to snow. The white stuff can also make crossing central Afghanistan to the Minaret of Jam extremely difficult outside these months, as roads and high passes close for the winter. Even the Salang Pass, the main artery between north and south Afghanistan, experiences avalanches and blockages a few times every winter.
\nWinter is harsh across the country barring the extreme south, with temperatures sitting below zero and heavy snow in Kabul and elsewhere. The spring melt can bring trouble of its own, with frequent floods washing out poorly maintained roads.<\/p>\n
At the end of winter, everyone looks forward to Nauroz on 21 March, the Afghan New Year celebrations. This can be a joyous time to visit the country, and one of the best times to see the national sport, buzkashi. Conversely, the month-long fast of Ramazan (Ramadan) can be a trying time to be on the road, as restaurants and teahouses are closed during the day, and frequently shut up shop for the entire month.<\/p>\n
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Afghanistan: Sights<\/p>\n
Panjshir Valley
\nThe lush green of the Panjshir Valley is the spiritual home of the Northern Alliance. The valley stretches for 100km (62mi) to the Anjoman Pass and offers great potential for trekking. Ahmad Shah Massoud, the formidable mujaheddin leader, is buried here in a small green-domed mausoleum, which has stunning views over the valley.<\/p>\n
In 2006, construction started on a ritzy new mausoleum for Massoud. His green shrouded tomb is already installed inside.<\/p>\n
100km N of Kabul
\nBand-e-Amir
\nLake of Jewels<\/p>\n
The five lakes of Band-e-Amir (Dam of the King) are hidden in the Koh-e-Baba at an altitude of 2900m (9512ft). The deep-blue waters glitter like jewels, in stark contrast to the dusty mountains. The most accessible of the lakes is Band-e-Haibat – the suitably named Dam of Awe. The lakes’ high mineral content gives them their colour.<\/p>\n
W of Bamiyan
\nMinaret of Jam<\/p>\n
Ancient Mystery
\nDating from the 12th century, this fabulous monument sits in the remote valleys of the Koh-e-Baba – its existence was only revealed to the outside world in the 1940s. Three tapering cylindrical shafts reach a dizzying height of 65m (213ft).<\/p>\n
5km S of Jam village<\/p>\n
Afghanistan: Currency
\nAfghanistan\u2019s currency is the afghani (Afg). Paper notes come in denominations of one, two, five, 10, 20, 50, 100, 500 and 1000. One, two and five afghani coins are slowly replacing the grubbiest small notes. When the afghani was relaunched in 2002 to encourage economic stability, there were around 10, 000Afg to the US dollar; since then the currency has consistently floated at around 45Afg to 50Afg to the dollar.<\/p>\n
Changing money
\nIt\u2019s far easier to change money on the street than in a bank, and in our experience some tellers will actually advise you to do just the same. Only Kabul Bank seems to consistently change money, but in a country where much of the economy operates outside the banking system, almost everyone uses moneychangers.<\/p>\n
Moneychangers tend to operate on the street, with small stands rather than formal shops. The main moneychanging areas are listed in the text \u2013 look out for men holding thick wedges of afghanis and clutches of US$100 bills. Afghan moneychangers are a pretty honest bunch as a whole, but always take your time to count out the bills, and don\u2019t hand over your money until you\u2019ve done so. Insist on smaller denominations if you\u2019re handed everything in 1000Afg notes.<\/p>\n
If you\u2019re not happy to change money standing on the street, doing it from a taxi is an acceptable practice. Alternatively, most hotels and many shops (particularly those dealing with imported goods, or carpet shops) are usually willing to change money. When bringing currency to Afghanistan get new dollar bills; higher denominations are preferred. Euros and sterling can be easily changed in the cities, but other currencies can be problematic. Currencies from neighbouring countries are freely exchangeable, but you get better rates closer to the relevant border \u2013 eg Iranian rials in Herat, or Tajik somani in Kunduz.<\/p>\n
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Getting There And Away
\nThere are few direct flights to Afghanistan from outside the immediate region. The most popular route from Europe or North America is to fly to Dubai, from where there are plenty of connections to Kabul. Coming from the east, the most convenient hubs to catch flights from are Delhi and Islamabad. When entering the country by air, formalities are fairly simple, but be prepared for long queues. Baggage reclaim can sometimes be something of a scrum, but at least the carousel normally has electricity these days. Customs checks on arrival are fairly cursory. Currently only Kabul International Airport (tel: 020 2300 016) receives commercial flights into Afghanistan. There is an ATM and currency exchange at the airport.<\/p>\n
Entering by land, Afghanistan maintains open border crossings with all its neighbours except China. Most of Afghanistan’s borders are so porous, you’ll be generally looked on as more a novelty than a bureaucratic hindrance. Bear in mind that Afghanistan has 30 minutes’ time difference with all its neighbours. Some borders are closed on certain days, and everything grinds to a halt at Friday lunch time.<\/p>\n
Getting Around
\nThe two Afghan airlines, Ariana (tel: 020 2100 271), www.flyariana.com) and Kam Air (tel: 020 2301 753); www.flykamair.com), both operate domestic schedules, linking Kabul with daily flights to Herat and Mazar-e Sharif, and Kandahar several times a week. There’s also a weekly Ariana Kandahar-Herat flight. For other destinations, the schedule is less predictable. In theory, Ariana also operates a twice-weekly flight to Faizabad, and weekly flights to Kunduz, Maimana and Shiberghan. In practice, these services can be cancelled for months at a time. Kam Air operates a reliable twice-weekly flight between Herat and Mazar-e Sharif. Kandahar and Maimana flights are also apparently planned. Demand is high for flights, so book as far in advance as you can. Ariana’s Kabul office can be chaotic but is surprisingly efficient. Kam Air run a slightly tighter ship. Elsewhere, things are more disorganised so you might need to be persistent to get your name on the list. You’ll need your passport when you book your ticket. Always recheck the time of departure the day before you fly. Schedule changes are both common and unexplained. If you’re in the provinces you’ll probably depart late anyway, as you wait for the plane to arrive from Kabul.
\nFailing an airline seat, your next best bet is a minibus; Afghanistan is held together by an indestructible fleet of Toyota HiAces that ply the country’s atrocious roads.<\/p>\n
Yellow-and-white shared taxis are a popular way to travel between towns. They leave from the same terminal as minibuses. They’re faster than minibuses and, with fewer seats, fill up and leave sooner. Fares are around a quarter to a third more expensive than the equivalent minibus. Cars are available for hire in Kabul, but always come complete with driver.<\/p>\n
Pre 20th Century History
\nAfghanistan’s history as a country spans little more than two centuries, although it has contributed to the greatness of many great Central Asian empires. As with much of the region, the rise and fall of political power has been inextricably tied to the rise and fall of religions.<\/p>\n
It was in Afghanistan that the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism began in the 6th century BCE. Later, Buddhism spread west from India to the Bamiyan Valley, where it remained strong until the 10th century AD. The eastward sweep of Islam reached Afghanistan in the 7th century AD, and today the vast majority of Afghans are Muslim.<\/p>\n
Between 1220 and 1223, Jenghiz Khan tore through the country, reducing Balkh, Herat, Ghazni and Bamiyan to rubble. After damage was repaired, Timur swept through in the early 1380s and reduced the region to rubble again. Timur’s reign ushered in the golden Timurid era, when poetry, architecture and miniature painting reached their zenith.<\/p>\n
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Timur’s fourth son, Shah Rukh, built shrines, mosques and medressas throughout Khorasan, from Mashhad, in modern-day Iran, to Balkh. Herat continued to prosper under Sultan Hussain Baykara (died 1506), producing such great Central Asian poets as Jami and Alisher Navoi.<\/p>\n
The rise of the great Mughal empire again lifted Afghanistan to heights of power. Babur had his capital in Kabul in 1512, but as the Mughals extended their power into India, Afghanistan went from being the centre of the empire to merely a peripheral part of it.<\/p>\n
The 19th century was a period of often comic-book confrontation with the British, who were afraid of the effects of unruly neighbours on their great Indian colony. The rise of tensions and the weakness of the Afghan kingdom resulted in some remarkably unsuccessful and bloody wars being fought on extremely flimsy pretexts. The first, between 1839 and 1842, saw the British garrison almost totally wiped out while retreating to the Khyber Pass – out of 15,000 persons, only one man survived. The British managed to reoccupy Kabul and carried out a bit of razing and burning to show who was boss, but this again was short-lived.<\/p>\n
Following another short war, from 1878 to 1880, Afghanistan agreed to become more or less a protectorate of the British, happily accepted an annual payment to keep things in shape and agreed to a British resident in Kabul. No sooner had the diplomatic mission been installed in Kabul, however, than all its members were murdered. This time the British decided to keep control over Afghanistan’s external affairs, but to leave the internal matters strictly to the Afghans themselves.<\/p>\n
In 1893 the British drew Afghanistan’s eastern boundaries along the so-called Durand Line, neatly partitioning many Pashtun tribes into what today is Pakistan. This has been a cause of Afghan-Pakistani strife for many years, and is the reason the Afghans refer to the western part of Pakistan as Pashtunistan.<\/p>\n
Modern History
\nFrom WWI onwards Afghanistan’s trade was tilted heavily towards the USSR and Soviet foreign aid to Afghanistan far outweighed Western assistance. Turkish-style reforms failed and the country remained precariously unstable for decades. The postwar kingdom ended in 1973 when the king was neatly overthrown while away in Europe. His ‘progressive’ successors were hardly any more progressive than he had been, but the situation under them was far better than that which was to follow.<\/p>\n
After the bloody 1978 pro-Moscow revolution, Afghanistan rapidly deteriorated. A second revolution brought in a government that leaned heavily on Soviet support and the country lurched towards anarchy. The USSR decided that enough was enough. Another ‘popular’ revolution took place in 1979, and a Soviet puppet government was installed in Kabul, with what looked like half the Soviet army lined up behind it.<\/p>\n
An Islamic jihad (holy war) was called and seven mujaheddin factions emerged. The Soviets soon found themselves mired in what later became known as ‘Russia’s Vietnam’. The war ground on through the 1980s. Afghan tribal warriors remained disorganised but determined; the CIA pumped up to US$700 million a year into the conflict in one of the largest covert operations in history. Soon the Soviet regime held only the cities and in the late 1980s Gorbachov finally pulled the Russians out.<\/p>\n
The war had cost the Soviets over 15,000 men, and contributed significantly to the collapse of the USSR. More than a million Afghans lay dead and 6.2 million people, over half the world’s refugee population, had fled the country.<\/p>\n
The Soviet withdrawal in 1989 weakened the government of President Najibullah and in 1992 Najibullah was ousted; a week later fighting erupted between rival mujaheddin factions in Kabul. An interim president was installed and replaced two months later by Burhanuddin Rabbani, a founder of the country’s Islamic political movement, backed by mujaheddin commander Ahmad Shah Massoud.<\/p>\n