Old and new are forever juxtaposed in Tokyo: its residents are at home both donning loincloths to shoulder a portable Shinto shrine through Asakusa\u2019s religious festivals and piloting humanoid fighting machines in Akihabara\u2019s robot sport tournaments. Tradition, happily…<\/p>\n
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Old and new are forever juxtaposed in Tokyo: its residents are at home both donning loincloths to shoulder a portable Shinto shrine through Asakusa\u2019s religious festivals and piloting humanoid fighting machines in Akihabara\u2019s robot sport tournaments. Tradition, happily, is not ossified, but feted along with innovation.<\/p>\n
The workaholic stereotype is very true \u2013 death from overwork is legally recognized in Japan \u2013 but stroll through a neon-lined row of Shinjuku yakitori joints on the weekend, or any cherry grove in spring and you\u2019ll see that people take pleasure very seriously here. There is ever-flowing sake, deep respect for freshly filleted fish and heartfelt karaoke, and constant curiosity about how outsiders view this archipelago at the end of the world.<\/p>\n
Orderly, efficient Tokyo works stunningly well for a metropolis its size, yet it has about as many masks as there are hostess clubs in Kabukich\u014d. Peeling back each fa\u00e7ade reveals a city that\u2019s far less Western than first impressions suggest; nearly everything Tokyoites do, from taking out the trash to cheering a ball game, is profoundly un-Western. Their reverence for ritual, courtesy and the power to ganbaru (persevere) gives this super-dense megalopolis a calm at the heart of the storm. This is wa \u2013 social harmony \u2013 and it\u2019s the force that makes Tokyo more a series of one-of-a-kind experiences than a collection of sights.<\/p>\n
Weather
\nTokyo kicks off its year with cold winter days and the odd snowfall. Although temperatures occasionally drop below freezing, winter (December to February) is usually reasonable if you have the right kind of clothes. Spring (March to May) brings pleasant, warm days, and, of course, cherry blossoms \u2013 early April is probably the best time to view the blooms. Summer (June to August) is hot and muggy, a time when overcrowded trains and long walks can feel irritating. Late June can see torrential rains that pound the city during monsoon seasons. The temperature and humidity are at their worst in August. Apart from spring, autumn (September to November) is the most pleasant season as temperatures cool down to a cozy level and days are often clear and fine. Autumn also means the return of the dramatic foliage season, when the parks and green areas of the city mellow into varying hues of orange and red.<\/p>\n
Getting there & around
\nTokyo\u2019s world-class; public-transport system will get you anywhere you need to go. Most places worth visiting are conveniently close to a subway or Japan Railways (JR) station. Where the rail network lets you down (though it really shouldn\u2019t), there are usually bus services \u2013 although using these can be challenging if you can\u2019t read kanji.
\nMost residents and visitors use the railway system far more than any other means of transport. It is reasonably priced and frequent (generally five minutes at most between trains on major lines in central Tokyo), and stations have conveniences such as left-luggage lockers for baggage storage. The only drawback is that the system shuts down at midnight or 1am and doesn\u2019t start up again until 5am or 6am.<\/p>\n
Subway trains have a tendency to stop halfway along their route when closing time arrives. People who are stranded face an expensive taxi ride home or have to wait for the first morning train. Check schedules posted on platforms for the last train on the line if you plan to be out late.<\/p>\n
Avoiding Tokyo\u2019s rush hour is a good idea, but might be impossible if you\u2019re on a tight schedule. Commuter congestion tends to ease between 10am and 4pm, when traveling around Tokyo \u2013 especially on the JR Yamanote Line \u2013 can actually be quite pleasant. Before 9.30am and from about 4.30pm onward there\u2019ll be cheek-to-jowl crowds on all major train and bus lines. Bus & tram Bus fares are \u00a5200 for Tokyo Metropolitan (Toei) buses; you can pick up a copy of the Toei Bus Route Guide, including a route map and timetable, at any Toei subway station. Children\u2019s rates are half those of adult fares. Deposit your fare into the box next to the driver as you enter the bus; you can get change for \u00a51000 notes and coins. A tape recording announces the name of each stop as it is reached, so listen carefully and press the button next to your seat when yours is announced.<\/p>\n The one-day Tokyo Combination Ticket can be used on Toei buses as well as the subway and JR railway lines.<\/p>\n Air Customs and immigration procedures are usually straightforward, although they\u2019re more time-consuming for gaijin (foreigners) than for Japanese. Note that as of 20 November 2007, non-Japanese have been fingerprinted and photographed on arrival, and are subject to intense questioning. A neat appearance will speed your passage through passport control and customs, though you can expect delays if you\u2019ve entered Japan multiple times as a tourist.<\/p>\n Everything at Narita Airport is clearly signposted in English and you can change money in the customs halls of either terminal or in the arrival halls. The rates will be the same as those offered in town.<\/p>\n Boat Train When determining where to get off the train, look for station names clearly marked in both Japanese and English on platform signs and\/or posts. These may sometimes be difficult to see, but inside the trains there are electronic signs indicating the next station in Japanese and English. Additionally, automated announcements are made both inside the trains, as well as at the station when the doors open.<\/p>\n Always watch out for express services. As a general rule, the longer the route, the more likely you are to find faster train services. The fastest \u2018regular\u2019 trains (i.e. slower than the bullet trains) are the tokky\u016b (; limited express services) and the ky\u016bk\u014d (; ordinary express), which usually stop at only a limited number of stations. The slowest trains, which stop at all stations, are called futs\u016b (). Most of Tokyo\u2019s train lines now reserve women-only carriages at weekday rush hours and on weekend nights. The carriages are marked with signs (usually pink) in both Japanese and English, or in some cases by illustrations showing the silhouette of a man standing outside of a women-only carriage. Boys older than 12 are not allowed on women-only carriages.<\/p>\n Bicycle Some ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) and inns rent bicycles to their guests, but if your lodgings don\u2019t, you can rent a bicycle in Asakusa for \u00a5200 per day. There\u2019s a bicycle-rental lot on the Sumida-gawa bank near Azumabashi (the bridge just outside Asakusa Station).<\/p>\n Economy Money The currency in Japan is the yen (\u00a5), and banknotes and coins are easily distinguishable. There are \u00a51, \u00a55, \u00a510, \u00a550, \u00a5100 and \u00a5500 coins; and \u00a51000, \u00a52000, \u00a55000 and \u00a510, 000 banknotes (the \u00a52000 note is very rarely seen). The \u00a51 coin is an aluminum lightweight coin; the bronze-colored \u00a55 and silver-colored \u00a550 coins both have a hole punched in the middle. Note that some vending machines do not accept older \u00a5500 coins. Prices may be listed using the kanji for yen (). Fortunately, Citibank operates 24-hour international ATMs in major areas including Roppongi, Harajuku, Omote-sand\u014d and Shinjuku. Better still, the Japanese postal system has recently linked all of its ATMs to the international Cirrus and Plus cash networks (and some credit-card networks), making life a breeze for travelers to Tokyo. Larger post offices (9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) have postal ATMs. Press the handy button marked \u2018English Guidance\u2019 for English instructions.<\/p>\n Changing money With a passport, you can change cash or travelers checks at any Authorized Foreign Exchange Bank (signs are displayed in English), major post offices, some large hotels and most big department stores. Note that you receive a better exchange rate when withdrawing cash from ATMs than when exchanging cash or travelers checks in Tokyo. Be aware that many banks place a limit on the amount of cash you can withdraw in one day (often around US$400).<\/p>\n Credit cards Before you go<\/strong><\/p>\n Recommended vaccinations History Tokyo has been generally accepted as the sole capital of Japan since 1869, when the Emperor took up permanent residence there. However, the capital was never legally “transferred” to Tokyo, leading some to question whether Kyoto may still be the capital, or a co-capital. Following the war, Tokyo was under military occupation and governed by the allied forces. General Douglas MacArthur established the occupation headquarters in what is now the Dai-Ichi Seimei building overlooking the Imperial Palace. The American presence in Tokyo made it an important command and logistics center during the Korean War. Tokyo still hosts a number of U.S. military bases, including Yokota Air Base.<\/p>\n During the 1950s and mid-1960s, Japan experienced what is widely described as the “economic miracle”, which transformed the nation from wartime devastation to the world’s second-largest economy by 1966. During this period, Japanese government policy placed priority on the development of infrastructure and manufacturing industries over social welfare. As a result, Japan came to dominate a range of industries including steel, ship-building, automobiles, semiconductors, and consumer electronics. Tokyo’s re-emergence from wartime trauma was complete at the 1964 Summer Olympics, which publicized the city on an international stage and brought global attention to the “economic miracle”.<\/p>\n Beginning in the 1970s, Japanese cities experienced a massive wave of expansion as laborers began migrating from rural areas, and Tokyo was one of the most dramatic examples. As it grew steadily into the economic bubble of the late 1980s, Tokyo became one of the most dynamic cities on Earth, with a tremendous range of social and economic activities, myriad restaurants and clubs, a major financial district, tremendous industrial strength, a wealth of shops, and world-class entertainment opportunities. The construction boom of the bubble years was one of the greatest in world history (as judged by the level of building expenditures in relation to the size of the economy), leading Tokyo to have an enormously more modern capital stock of buildings than similar metropolises such as London and New York City. Although the recession following the bursting of the “bubble economy” in the early 1990s hurt the city, Tokyo remains the predominant economic center of East Asia, rivaled only by Hong Kong and Singapore.<\/p>\n On March 20, 1995, Tokyo became the focus of international media attention in the wake of the Aum Shinrikyo cult terrorist organization attack with Sarin nerve gas on the Tokyo subway system (in the tunnels beneath the political district of central Tokyo) in which 12 people were killed and thousands affected (see Sarin gas attack on the Tokyo subway).<\/p>\n
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\nLocal transport<\/strong><\/p>\n
\nBus
\nThe vast majority of Tokyoites and resident experts never set foot on a bus as the rail and subway system is convenient and incredibly comprehensive. However, on rare occasions, it can sometimes be quicker to get between two destinations on a bus.<\/p>\n
\nInternational flights from all over the world land in Japan, most of them arriving in Tokyo. Tokyo is also the hub of air travel within Japan, which is extensive, reliable and safe. In many cases, flying can be faster \u2013 and not significantly more expensive \u2013 than riding the shinkansen (bullet train). Flying can also help you get from Japan\u2019s main hubs, such as Tokyo and Osaka, to some of the country\u2019s most far-flung destinations, such as Okinawa and Hokkaido.<\/p>\n
\nWater taxis are one of the most dramatic ways to take in the city.<\/p>\n
\nThe Tokyo train system can be a bit daunting at first, but you\u2019ll get the hang of it soon enough. Much initial confusion arises from the fact that Tokyo is serviced by a combination of train lines, private and municipal inner-city subway lines and private suburban lines. This sometimes means switching between different train and subway systems, though it\u2019s not as bad as it sounds since the lines are well integrated.<\/p>\n
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\nSince the faster trains do not stop at all stations, you must determine whether your destination is serviced by an express train before boarding it. However, there is usually a board on the platform indicating exactly which trains stop where, in both English and Japanese.<\/p>\n
\nDespite the tangled traffic and often narrow roads, bicycles are still one of the most common forms of transport in Tokyo. Theft does happen, especially of cheap bicycles, so go ahead and lock up your bike. Ride with your bag or pack on your person, as opportunists on motorbikes do swipe stuff from those front-mounted baskets.<\/p>\n
\nAlthough it looked as if Japan was going to take over the world economically through the 1980s, by the 1990s Japan\u2019s economy was in a certifiable recession and remained so until very recently. Unemployment hovered around 5% (high by national standards), homelessness rose (visible in major encampments in districts such as Ueno and Shinjuku), and corporations approached bankruptcy and bank loans turned into bad debts. The result: deflation, increased public debt and growing concern over how to support a graying populace (Japan has one of the world\u2019s oldest populations, with life expectancies over 77 years for men and 85 for women). However, 2005 marked the beginning of a turnaround, which appears, finally, to have traction \u2013 land values in the city rose for the first time since 1991, and the Nikkei index is once again climbing high.
\nSome smart Tokyoites used the bubble to regenerate. People under 40 began to reject the stability of lifetime employment in favor of more compelling, often more flexible, independent jobs. The emblem of this movement was Horie Takafumi, who in 1995 dropped out of Tokyo University (Japan\u2019s most prestigious) at the age of 23 to found a consulting company that eventually morphed into Livedoor, one of Japan\u2019s leading internet services and DVD-rental empires. Horie\u2019s showy personal trappings \u2013 fast cars, T-shirts instead of suits, brash corporate takeover bids and being a general media hound \u2013 infuriated the old-line corporate world. They also landed him in a book-cooking scandal that has periodically splashed across the headlines in recent times.<\/p>\n
\nBe warned that cold hard cash is the way to pay in Tokyo. Although credit cards are becoming more common, cash is still the payment of choice, and traveler\u2019s checks are rarely accepted outside of large hotels and department stores. Do not assume that you can pay with a credit card, and always carry sufficient cash.<\/p>\n
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\nATMs
\nATMs are almost as common as vending machines in Tokyo. Unfortunately, most of these do not accept foreign-issued cards. Even if they display Visa and MasterCard logos, most accept only Japan-issued versions of these cards. Also, 24-hour ATMs are exceedingly rare.<\/p>\n
\nIn theory, banks and post offices will change all major currencies. In practice, some banks refuse to exchange anything but US-dollar cash and travelers checks. Note also that the currencies of neighboring Taiwan (New Taiwan dollar) and Korea (won) are not easy to change, so you should change these into yen or US dollars before arriving in Japan.<\/p>\n
\nAs Japan is very much a cash-based economy, never assume you can pay using a credit card. For businesses which do take credit card, Visa is most widely accepted, followed by MasterCard, American Express and Diners Club. Getting a cash advance using your foreign-issued credit card is nearly impossible, but Sumitomo Mitsui banks (SMBC) give cash advances if you bring your passport with you. The main credit-card companies all have offices in Tokyo.<\/p>\n
\nNo vaccinations are required for Japan. Your routine vaccinations should be up to date, though travelers at special risk should additionally consider the following:
\nJapanese B encephalitis There is no risk in Tokyo, but there is risk in rural areas of all islands. The risk is highest in the western part of the country from July to October.
\nTick-borne encephalitis This is present only in the wooded areas of Hokkaid\u014d and is transmitted between April and October. The vaccine is readily available in Europe but can be difficult to find elsewhere.<\/p>\n
\nTokyo was initially constructed in 1457; the city was known as Edo (\u6c5f\u6238). The Tokugawa shogunate was established in 1603 with Edo as its seat of government (de facto capital). (The emperor’s residence, and formal capital, remained in Kyoto until that city had been the actual capital of Japan until that time.) In September of 1868, when the shogunate came to an end, Emperor Meiji ordered Edo to be renamed “Tokyo,” meaning “Eastern Capital.” The new name was meant to emphasize Tokyo’s status as the new capital of Japan, both temporally and spiritually.<\/p>\n
\nSee: Capital of Japan debate
\nThe Great Kanto earthquake struck Tokyo in 1923, killing approximately 70,000 people; a massive reconstruction plan was drawn up, but was too expensive to carry out except in part. Despite this, the city grew until the beginning of World War II. During the war, Tokyo was heavily bombed, much of the city was burned to the ground, and its population in 1945 was only half that of 1940.<\/p>\n