![\"kor.jpg\"](\"http:\/\/www.asianinny.com\/temp\/wp-content\/uploads\/2008\/06\/kor.jpg\")
<\/p>\nA green outdoors and a sage people.<\/p>\n
South Korea is a country swathed in green, prodding its stony fingers skyward, and the Koreans are a people obsessed with nature, and with mountains in particular…<\/p>\n
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A green outdoors and a sage people.South Korea is a country swathed in green, prodding its stony fingers skyward, and the Koreans are a people obsessed with nature, and with mountains in particular. Wherever you travel, you’ll see Koreans out in the open air, clad in the latest adventure fashions, pushing ever onward and upward.<\/p>\n
With China looming to its west and Japan nudging it from the east, it’s no wonder the country has played unwilling host to centuries of war games. But no matter how many times its neighbours try to swallow it, South Korea manages to survive intact.<\/p>\n
South Korea: When to Go
\nKorea has four distinct seasons, with a wet monsoon\/summer in the middle of the year, and a very cold winter from November to March. Jeju-do off the south coast is the warmest and wettest place in the country.<\/p>\n
If you possibly can, time your visit to South Korea for autumn (September to November). It’s sunny, the skies are blue, and Korea’s spectacular autumn foliage is a real draw. Winter is cold but dry, and a good time to visit if you like skiing, snow-draped temples, a dearth of tourists and crisp (ie below freezing) weather. Spring (April to May) can be beautiful, but it’s also the most popular time with Japanese tourists and you’ll have trouble getting mid to top-end accommodation. Summer is hot, muggy, crowded, wet, typhoon-prone and expensive.<\/p>\n
Weather
\nSouth Korea has the dubious distinction of having the coldest temperatures at its latitude so unless you enjoy multi-layer clothing, stick to the months from May to September. On the up side, Korean winters tend to have an abundance of blue skies. Rain is moderate to quite heavy in July and when mixed with high 20\u00b0C (78-85\u00b0F) days can make things a bit sticky. Whether you enjoy the steamy summer or the crisp winter will depend on your temperament.<\/p>\n
South Korea: Events
\nThe first day of the first moon is Seollal (lunar new year; January\/February), when South Korea grinds to a halt. The Cherry Blossom Festival in Jinhae in the province of Gyeongsangnam-do usually falls in early April (if the weather and trees cooperate). Lantern parades are held for Buddha’s Birthday , celebrated in late April or early May. In Seoul, there is an evening parade from Tapgol Park to Jogyesa on the Sunday prior to the actual holiday. June sees processions of shamans and mask dances at the Dano Festival , and in September the National Folk Arts Festival showcases Korean culture. South Korea’s biggest holiday is Chuseok (Harvest Moon Festival\/Korean Thanksgiving). At this time (September\/October), cities throughout the country empty as people return to their family homes to pay homage to their ancestors.<\/p>\n
South Korea: Sights<\/p>\n
Dadohae Haesang National Park
\nAddress Mokpo Transport ferry: Mokpo terminal 1, three daily Keyword island, national park This marine national park, situated off the southwest corner of the peninsula, is made up of over 1700 islands. Hongdo (Red Island) and Heuksando are the most popular. Hongdo is worth visiting for its sheer cliffs, bizarre rock formations, spectacular sunsets and wooded hillsides cut by steep ravines. Heuksando is flatter and more populous.<\/p>\n
Dadohae Haesang National Park occupies much of the coast and coastal waters of Jeollanam-do. Some of the isles support small communities with income from fishing and tourism; others are little more than tree-covered rocks.<\/p>\n
Mokpo, Hongdo and Heuksando make up the gateway to the western sector. They are popular spots in July and Auguest, when people are looking to beat the heat. Because of this, booking ferries and accommodation in advance is advised.<\/p>\n
Dodong Mineral Spring Park
\nAddress Dodong-ri Phone tel: 791 7160 (info) Keyword wellbeing, views, national park, spring\/mudpool\/geyser Get a birds-eye view of Ulleungdo by taking the cable car from the park to Manghyangbong peak. If watching the beautiful sunset has made you all emotional, let it out at the karaoke lounge. The park’s namesake mineral-water spring is near the top and some claim drinking it has all sorts of medicinal benefits.<\/p>\n
There are also two free museums in the park – the elaborate Dokdo Museum and Ulleungdo’s simple historical museum. Both islands have fascinating history, but given that the exhibits are only in Korean, non-Korean-speakers may find them a little impenetrable.<\/p>\n
Gyeongbokgung
\nAddress Gwanghwamun, Seoul Phone tel: (061) 732 1931 Transport train: to Gyeongbokgung station, exit 5. Hours Mar-Oct: Wed-Mon 09:00 – 18:00 ; Nov-Feb: Wed-Mon 09:00 – 17:00
\nMay-Oct: Sat-Sun 09:00 – 19:00 Keyword castle, royal The grandest palace in Seoul, Gyeongbokgung lay in ruins for nearly 300 years until Heungseon Daewongun, regent and father of King Gojong, began to rebuild it in 1865. King Gojong moved in during 1868. Despite damage during Japanese colonial rule, the majesty of surviving buildings like the 48-columned Gyeonghoeru pavilion easily warrants a visit.<\/p>\n
This was the country’s principal royal residence until the palace was destroyed in 1592 during the Imjaewaran war with Japan. But it was not the Japanese that razed the palace. The citizens of Seoul did that dirty deed. As the Japanese marched across the country, the King and yangban (aristocrats) abandoned Seoul to save their own skins. Angered by the desertion, a mob burned down the palace.<\/p>\n
Free English-language tours are conducted daily (except Tuesday) and the ceremonial changing of the guard takes place six times daily (also except Tuesday). Paid admission to the palace includes entry into the National Palace Museum.<\/p>\n
On the other side of the compound, the National Folk Museum recreates everyday Joseon life. Farming implements, clothing and the requisite kimchi display are here along with an exhibition of scholarly thought.<\/p>\n
Korean Folk Village
\nAddress Suwon, Seoul Phone tel: (031) 288 0000 (info) Transport underground rail: to Suwon station
\nbus: 37 Hours 09:00 – 18:00
\nNov-Feb 09:00 – 17:00 Web www.koreanfolk.co.kr Keyword kids, quiet, village Set around a quiet river, the folk village houses a temple, a Confucian school and shrine, a market, a magistrate’s, storehouses, a bullock and cart, and household furnishings and tools. They represent traditional housing styles from all over the country.<\/p>\n
This is a real village, not just a tourist show – the people you see working here live here all the time, although there are regular dance performances and parades held every day, which may be a nod to sightseers.<\/p>\n
The village takes at least half a day to look around and has a true rural village atmosphere: hanbok-clad artisans create pots, make paper and weave bamboo while other workers tend vegetable plots, pigs, and chickens.<\/p>\n
Next door is an amusement park for children, an art gallery and a world folk museum. A combo ticket to all three gives you a discount off the separate admission fees.<\/p>\n
Seongnamsa
\nTransport bus: Miryang bus terminal Hours 03:00 – 20:00 Keyword religious\/spiritual, mountain, national park, forest This must-see temple is a visual masterpiece. The 800m (.5mi) walk along an interlocking stone path from the park entrance to the temple is sublime. At the temple’s main gate, pause half way up the stairs and take in the image of a multi-storeyed pagoda and bamboo trees juxtaposed against the mountain.<\/p>\n
Seongnamsa is an easy day-trip from Busan. The bus climbs a steep road carved into the mountainside with stunning views of peaks and valleys smothered in a green forest. Be savvy and sit on the right hand side of the bus for the best views.<\/p>\n
South Korea: Money & Costs
\nSouth Korea is steadily shouldering its way into the big league when it comes to costs – Japan is about the only place that’s still more expensive. If you’re staying in a hostel or a traditional Korean inn, you might be able to get by on US$40.00 a day assuming you lead an extremely frugal existence. If you’re planning to travel around and would prefer more luxurious accommodation, you should expect to spend significantly more. As for sustenance, the nightlife in Seoul will dig into your coffers, but food is generally quite cheap – US$7.00 should fill you up. Travelling will up your spending, but happily Korean transport is both efficient and reasonably priced. A high-speed train runs the length of the country and a ticket on this only costs US$40.00 .<\/p>\n
Currency
\nName South Korean Won
\nSymbol \u20a9 Sample Price Guide
\nsmall bottle of water 500 loaf of bread 1600 movie ticket 7000 litre of petrol 1500 litre of bottled water 1100 half litre of beer 1000 souvenir t-shirt 5000 street snack (Tteobokki) 2000 local newspaper 700 food court lunch 6000 movie ticket 7000 steak dinner 25,000 tailor-made suit 200,000 Average Room Prices
\nLow Mid High Deluxe
\n\u20a98000-23000 \u20a923000-45000 \u20a945000-70000 \u20a970000+
\nAverage Meal Prices
\nLow Mid High Deluxe
\n\u20a92300-3400 \u20a93400-12000 \u20a912000-20000 \u20a920000+<\/p>\n
South Korea: Getting there & around
\nGetting There
\nA number of international carriers fly to South Korea. The international airport is in Incheon, 60km (37mi) from the capital; Gimpo airport in Seoul now operates mostly domestic flights with limited service to Japan. The international airports in Busan and Jeju have flights to and from China and Japan. If you’re flying from Japan, Tokyo is the best place for cheap fares. Departure tax on international flights is to be paid in won and costs in the vicinity of US$10.00 .<\/p>\n
Courier companies offer discounted airfares to passengers willing to accompany packages through customs; you may have to surrender all your baggage allowance. If you want to extend your trip, you could consider a round-the-world ticket; this is a good-value way of seeing several countries, as long as you don’t mind booking your stops in advance.<\/p>\n
If you have the time, the Trans-Mongolian railway via Ulan Baatar to Beijing, with onward connections to Shanghai, is one of the world’s acclaimed rail trips. From Shanghai, there are boats to Incheon; book this in advance. Ferries also run from Busan to Shimonoseki, Hiroshima, Hitakatsu, Izuhara, Kokura, Osaka and Hakata in Japan, Dalian, Dandong, Weihai, Yantai City, Qingdao, Yingkou and Tianjin in China. You can get some great combined ferry-train tickets, eg express train from Seoul to Busan, jetfoil to Hakata, plus a rail ticket to Osaka. Other combinations include: Seoul-Tokyo, Daegu-Kobe, Daejeon-Hiroshima etc. To get to\/from Russia there are ferries between Sokcho in Korea and Zarubino in Russia. The seafaring adventurer could hitch a ride on a cargo freighter; it’s not the quickest way to go, but you’ll see a fair few ports on the way and it’s a low-cost option.<\/p>\n
You can forget about entering South Korea by land.<\/p>\n
Getting Around
\nAll South Korea’s main cities are linked by air, but the distances are small so it’s usually not worth the extra cost. Land travel may still prove a better bet: buses are fast, safe and on time; the train network is extensive and services are frequent. There are two types of bus, express and intercity – the former go direct and the latter stop. Seats are reserved on the express buses (if you miss your bus, you must buy a new ticket), and unreserved on the intercity services.<\/p>\n
The trains are also efficient: a high-speed service – called KTX – runs the length of the country and there are several local trains. Trains are clean, safe, punctual and inexpensive, and just about every station has signage in Korean and English. Compartments are non-smoking. Trains are the best option for long-distance travel and mugunghwa trains cost less than deluxe buses. Developed in Korea, the new bullet trains can travel at over 300km\/h (186mi\/h). Trains are operated by Korea National Railroad. Rail passes (KR Pass) can be a good bet if you’re planning on travelling around for a few days. They allow three, five, seven or 10 days unlimited travel on Korean trains; at the moment they can only be purchased in Japan or America, but there are plans to widen their availability. For more details on the rail pass see www.korail.go.kr .<\/p>\n
Driving in South Korea can be difficult: it’s expensive, drivers consistently ignore traffic rules and traffic jams are a common problem. If that doesn’t put you off, make sure you take an International Driving Permit. Long-distance share taxis, known as bullet taxis, go between big cities and major tourist sights. They’re not metred so you’ll need to negotiate a price before you set off. Cycling in Seoul is a bit of an extreme sport, but it can be a pleasant way of exploring the rural areas.<\/p>\n
Water-babies can take ferries from the mainland to offshore islands and several lakes. Most cities have buses, but the stop names are not in English. Seoul, Busan, and several other cities have subways, which are convenient, cheap and comprehensible (all the signs are in Korean and English). Taxis cost more than the subway, but if you fancy treating yourself, deluxe taxis are comfortable, and the driver usually speaks English.<\/p>\n
South Korea: History
\nPre-20th-Century History
\nAccording to the Koreans, the first of their kin was born in 2333 BC. Scientists with slightly less respect for Korean mythology believe Korea was first inhabited around 30,000 BC, when tribes from central and northern Asia stumbled on the peninsula. Under constant pressure from China, these tribes banded together to found Korea’s first kingdom – Goguryeo – in the 1st century AD.<\/p>\n
The next four centuries were known as the Three Kingdoms Period; Goguryeo (north), Baekje (southwest) and Silla (southeast). The period was marked by a remarkable flowering of the arts, architecture, literature and statecraft. It was also during this period that the formative influence of Buddhism took hold, established in Goguryeo and Baekje in the late 4th century and in Silla in the early 6th century. By 700 AD the Silla Kingdom of Korea was hitting its cultural stride, littering the country with palaces, pagodas and pleasure gardens and influencing the development of Japan’s culture. But in the early 13th century the Mongols reached Korea and gave it their customary scorched-earth treatment. When the Mongol Empire collapsed, the Choson Dynasty took over and a Korean script was developed.<\/p>\n
In 1592 Japan invaded, followed by China – the Koreans were routed and the Chinese Manchu Dynasty moved in. Turning its back on the mean and nasty world, Korea closed its doors to outside influence until the early 20th century.<\/p>\n
Modern History
\nJapan invaded the peninsula in 1904, and officially annexed it in 1910. The Japanese, who hung on until the end of WWII, were harsh masters, and anti-Japanese sentiment was strong. After the war, the USA occupied the south of the peninsula, while the USSR took over the north. Elections to decide the fate of the country were held only in the south, and when the south declared its independence, the north invaded. The ensuing war lasted until 1953 (or is still continuing, if you count MASH re-runs).<\/p>\n
By the time the war ended, two million people had died and the country had been officially divided. After a few years of semi-democracy in the South, martial law was declared in 1972. The next 15 years rollercoastered between democracy and repressive martial law, hitting a stomach-heaving low in 1980 when 200 student protesters were killed in the Gwangju massacre. By the late 1980s the country was at flashpoint – student protests were convulsing the country and workers all over Korea were walking off the job to join them. Among the demands were democratic elections, freedom of the press and the release of political prisoners. The government wasn’t budging and civil war looked imminent until, to everyone’s jaw-dropping surprise, President Chun suddenly decided that everything the protesters were asking for was alright by him.<\/p>\n
In 1988 – the year Seoul hosted the Olympic Games – elections were held and Roh Tae-woo, another military figure, was elected president. Student protests continued apace, but, contrary to expectations, Roh significantly freed up the political system. Relations were re-established with China and the Soviet Union. In a 1992 election, Roh was replaced by Kim Young-sam and his Democratic Liberal Party. Kim’s hobby horse was corruption, and during his term of office several politicians were prosecuted for abusing the system. Most notably, ex-presidents Chun and Roh were brought to book for their role in the Gwangju massacre. Roh was sentenced to 22 years, Chun to death, but in December 1997, Kim granted them a presidential pardon and the two were released from prison. 1997 was a very bad year for South Korea’s economy, with the won taking a tumble and tourism dropping dramatically. In February 1998, former dissident Kim Dae-jung became president, the first time a non-conservative had headed the country in its 50 years of independence. Kim promised to introduce economic and democratic reforms and improve relations with North Korea.<\/p>\n
By mid-1998 the South Korean economy was actually shrinking – something that hadn’t occurred for nearly two decades. Rising bankruptcies and soaring unemployment led to large-scale labour unrest, but the economy is now on the move again.<\/p>\n
Making good on promises of more neighbourly relations with North Korea, Kim made an historic visit to shake the hand of reclusive North Korean leader, Kim Jong Il, in June 2000. As a sign of good faith he allowed the North Korean government to arrange for his security. In October 2000 he was awarded the Nobel Peace Prize, and as part of a partnership with Japan and the USA continues to pursue a policy of cooperation with North Korea. In December 2001 he became the first Asian leader to speak before the European Parliament in Strasbourg.<\/p>\n
The luster of Kim’s peace prize seems to have worn off with evidence of a cash for summit scandal. Apparently, the South Korean government had a hand in a secretly pumping a vast sum of money – in the order of $100 million or more – into the North in order to ensure that then President Kim Dae-jung could get a visa to North Korea and shake hands with the Dear Leader.<\/p>\n
Recent History
\nA naval battle early the following year against North Korea that left four dead (and claimed an estimated 30 North Korean victims) highlighted the fragility of the rapprochement. In December 2002, Roh Moo-hyun won the presidency, but by early 2004 he was hanging on to power by a thread. Parliament voted to impeach him, but its decision was reversed by the Constitutional Court. Meanwhile, a site for the country’s new capital city was chosen in the Yeongi-Kongju area and the US announced plans to reduce its troop numbers by a third. After successfully completing a free trade agreement with Singapore and Chile (which, if nothing else has brought some reasonably priced wine into the country), South Korea initiated FTA talks with a number of other countries including the USA (very contentious due to the potentially negative impacts on South Korea’s agricultural industries) and Canada.<\/p>\n