Getting There And Away
There are few direct flights to Afghanistan from outside the immediate region. The most popular route from Europe or North America is to fly to Dubai, from where there are plenty of connections to Kabul. Coming from the east, the most convenient hubs to catch flights from are Delhi and Islamabad. When entering the country by air, formalities are fairly simple, but be prepared for long queues. Baggage reclaim can sometimes be something of a scrum, but at least the carousel normally has electricity these days. Customs checks on arrival are fairly cursory. Currently only Kabul International Airport (tel: 020 2300 016) receives commercial flights into Afghanistan. There is an ATM and currency exchange at the airport.

Entering by land, Afghanistan maintains open border crossings with all its neighbours except China. Most of Afghanistan’s borders are so porous, you’ll be generally looked on as more a novelty than a bureaucratic hindrance. Bear in mind that Afghanistan has 30 minutes’ time difference with all its neighbours. Some borders are closed on certain days, and everything grinds to a halt at Friday lunch time.

Getting Around
The two Afghan airlines, Ariana (tel: 020 2100 271), www.flyariana.com) and Kam Air (tel: 020 2301 753); www.flykamair.com), both operate domestic schedules, linking Kabul with daily flights to Herat and Mazar-e Sharif, and Kandahar several times a week. There’s also a weekly Ariana Kandahar-Herat flight. For other destinations, the schedule is less predictable. In theory, Ariana also operates a twice-weekly flight to Faizabad, and weekly flights to Kunduz, Maimana and Shiberghan. In practice, these services can be cancelled for months at a time. Kam Air operates a reliable twice-weekly flight between Herat and Mazar-e Sharif. Kandahar and Maimana flights are also apparently planned. Demand is high for flights, so book as far in advance as you can. Ariana’s Kabul office can be chaotic but is surprisingly efficient. Kam Air run a slightly tighter ship. Elsewhere, things are more disorganised so you might need to be persistent to get your name on the list. You’ll need your passport when you book your ticket. Always recheck the time of departure the day before you fly. Schedule changes are both common and unexplained. If you’re in the provinces you’ll probably depart late anyway, as you wait for the plane to arrive from Kabul.
Failing an airline seat, your next best bet is a minibus; Afghanistan is held together by an indestructible fleet of Toyota HiAces that ply the country’s atrocious roads.

Yellow-and-white shared taxis are a popular way to travel between towns. They leave from the same terminal as minibuses. They’re faster than minibuses and, with fewer seats, fill up and leave sooner. Fares are around a quarter to a third more expensive than the equivalent minibus. Cars are available for hire in Kabul, but always come complete with driver.

Pre 20th Century History
Afghanistan’s history as a country spans little more than two centuries, although it has contributed to the greatness of many great Central Asian empires. As with much of the region, the rise and fall of political power has been inextricably tied to the rise and fall of religions.

It was in Afghanistan that the ancient religion of Zoroastrianism began in the 6th century BCE. Later, Buddhism spread west from India to the Bamiyan Valley, where it remained strong until the 10th century AD. The eastward sweep of Islam reached Afghanistan in the 7th century AD, and today the vast majority of Afghans are Muslim.

Between 1220 and 1223, Jenghiz Khan tore through the country, reducing Balkh, Herat, Ghazni and Bamiyan to rubble. After damage was repaired, Timur swept through in the early 1380s and reduced the region to rubble again. Timur’s reign ushered in the golden Timurid era, when poetry, architecture and miniature painting reached their zenith.