Bus
Minibuses (which run from 6am to around midnight) ply the streets of all the major towns. They’re cheap (YR10 to YR30 for a hop), but unless you know exactly where they’re heading, taxis are an easier, faster and certainly more comfortable option.
Air
The only airline offering domestic flights is the national carrier, Yemenia (01-232380; www.yemenia.com; usually 8am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Sat-Thu). It boasts a pretty extensive network.
Note that it’s considerably cheaper to buy Yemenia tickets in Yemen through a Yemenia office rather than through a travel agency. For the cheapest fares, book flights well in advance. Yemenia offices can be found in all of Yemen’s main towns, and accept Yemeni riyals, US dollars, euros and usually Amex, MasterCard and Visa credit cards.
Yemenia flights are prone to both delays and cancellations. Always reconfirm flights.
Bicycle
As longs as cyclists are reasonably fit (for mountainous terrain), self-sufficient (with lots of spare parts) and able to carry plenty of water, there’s no reason not to bring a bike. Punctures are quite common, however, and you’ll need to ride extremely defensively. Yemeni drivers aren’t used to cyclists, and tend to ‘bully’ smaller traffic anyway. Make sure that your bike is registered in your passport upon arrival to avoid problems with customs on exiting the country.
Costs
Tipping
Although tipping is not expected in local restaurants, the up market tourist establishments often add a 10% to 15% service charge. Service charges and government taxes (totaling 22% or more) are often included at top-end hotels and restaurants, too. Porters and waiters in these establishments will also expect tips (YR100 to YR200). For drivers and guides, travel agencies recommend US$5 to US$10 per day per group. If there is only one or two of you, this can add substantially to the cost of your tour, and drivers can become difficult if they don’t feel they have received a sufficient tip. For adults who play tour guides or offer other services, a tip of YR300 to YR500 (YR100 to YR150 for children) is fair.
Economy
Yemen is one of the Arab world’s poorest countries, though the economy grew at a rate of 3.5% between 2000 and 2006. Oil is Yemen’s economic mainstay and accounts for around 70% of government revenue. Nevertheless, compared to other peninsula countries, Yemen’s oil wealth is modest, though revenues increased in 2006 in line with the worldwide rise in oil prices. Yemen struggles to control corruption and excessive spending and relies greatly on foreign aid.
In November 2006 the country secured US$4.7 billion in development aid from Western and Arab donors.
Moneychangers
Numerous (and well-signposted) foreign-exchange offices are found in the cities and larger towns. They offer shorter queues than the banks, faster service, longer opening hours (usually 9am to 9pm, except Friday) and almost always offer a better rate of exchange (at least for cash). Check with a couple first, as rates can vary slightly between offices. Commission is seldom charged, but checks in advance.
Travelers checks
Traveler’s checks can be difficult to change outside the largest towns. Also, changing them generally incurs a 3% to 5% commission or more. If you must use chouse, Credit Agricole Indosuez is the best bank to change with.