It’s a pity that Manila is often disparaged, as there’s much here to like. For one, all the adjectives often used to describe the Philippines – jovial, laid back, casual, corrupt, shambolic, earnest and more are on display here more than anywhere else in the country. It’s a truly teeming metropolis that gets bigger each day, both in population, with people pouring in from the hinterlands, and size, as new developments in all directions swallow up villages and rice fields.

Manila can be a very discombobulated place, for it is really just a collection of towns with no definable centre. The walled Intramuros area was the traditional centre of Manila, but was mostly wiped out in WWII and has never recovered. Binondo, Quiapo, Ermita and Malate have never been more than a supporting cast for a star that doesn’t exist. Still, you may well find lots of fun in Ermita and Malate, while Binondo and Quiapo have a certain raw energy and unique markets. And Intramuros is a good place to explore, just to find the bones of its past.

Other parts of town are livelier. At the centre of modern Manila is Makati, the commercial centre for the country. Here, in almost orderly surroundings, you can shop, eat and drink to your heart’s content. It transcends the generic-mall syndrome by having its own unique vibe that comes from the hordes of locals who come here to work, relax and play. As many will tell you, ‘this is the Manila we wish we had’.

Rather than seeing Manila as an amorphous mass, focus instead on enjoying its individual areas and you will start to get a feel for the greater Manila, which really is a sum of its parts.

Money
Most banks in Manila have ATMs and these are usually your safest and most hassle- free way to get local currency. You can also change foreign cash and travelers checks at most banks.

American Express (524 8681; 1810 A Maine St, Malate; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) has affiliate offices in Manila and can offer exchange and replacement services to cardholders and travelers-checks holders.

Malate and Ermita are peppered with moneychangers, and there are places all over the city where you can change foreign currency into Philippine pesos, but you should always be very careful with these services.

Dangers & annoyances
With a total population of close to 11 million people, Manila has earned a reputation for being overcrowded. Traffic, crime, noise and air pollution are also major annoyances, though the last plays a critical role in producing Manila Bay’s legendary sunsets.