When the Taliban fled Kabul in the face of the post-9/11 US bombing campaign, they left a city wrecked by years of war. Half the city consisted of rubble and no-one could remember the last time anything new had been built. It was a city on life-support.

Today, Kabul seems to change on an almost daily basis. Swathes of the city have been cleared, and new buildings are quickly thrown up as if in a steroid-powered building contest. The air is thick with the sound of mobile phones. New restaurants and busy bazaars cater to the nouveau riche Afghans surfing an economic boom and the sizeable international community helping with Afghanistan’s reconstruction (or just making money out of it). While there’s a long way to go before Kabul is restored to its position as a travelers’ haunt, there’s a whiff of its old cosmopolitan self in the air.

Weather
Kabul’s mountain location gives it a generally pleasant climate. Babur thought so too, noting that ‘within a day’s ride from Kabul it is possible to reach a place where snow never falls, but within two hours one can go where the snow never melts.’ Summer temperatures reach a maximum of around 33°C in August, although the high altitude means that nights are cold enough to warrant wearing an extra layer and a blanket on your bed. Temperatures drop to just below freezing between December and February, when there can be heavy snow. Heavy rain and snowmelt can cause problems for Kabul’s creaking infrastructure, and thick dust turns quickly to mud.

One drawback to Kabul’s mountain-fringed location is that dust and pollution is easily trapped in the atmosphere, reducing the air quality considerably.

Money
For exchange, ask at your hotel or guesthouse; banks aren’t much help. Moneychangers are found at Charahi Torabaz Khan or in the market around Pul-e Khishti Mosque. Look for the small stands with piles of money. There are also some moneychangers around the taxi stands of Serai Shomali motor park.

Afghanistan International Bank (behind Amani High School, Wazir Akbar Khan; 9am-5pm Sun-Thu, 9am-1pm Sat) ATM. Also has 24-hour ATMs at Kabul Airport, Intercontinental Hotel, Kabul City Centre, Chelsea Supermarket and Supreme PX. Issues dollars and afghanis.