Thousands of experts live and work in Seoul – most enjoy their stay and a few never leave. Their main struggle is usually with the language as English is not widely spoken or understood. Seoul has its rough edges: traffic congestion, ugly high-rises, and not all the characteristics that have lead to the city’s astonishing economic success are endearing. But as with working abroad anywhere, a positive attitude, adaptability and understanding are the keys to an enjoyable long-term stay.

Recommended excursions include touring the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), which is a fascinating but stark reminder of the dangerous division of the country; walking around the rebuilt walls of Suwon’s World Heritage fortress; and boarding a ferry to the beaches and seafood restaurants on unspoilt islands in the West Sea.

No other Korean city approaches the size and importance of rush-rush Seoul with its nearly 11 million residents and another eight million who live within commuting distance. It is the dynamic political, financial, educational and cultural hub of the world’s 11th largest economy. Seoul is a 600-year-old capital, a complex, rarely explored Asian city that is a fascinating cultural bibimbap of rude energy, Confucian rules and democratic values, where Buddhists and shamanists rub shoulders with Christians and atheists.

Weather
Seoul has four very distinct seasons – and people never tire of telling you. Weather-wise, the best time of year to visit is autumn, from September to November, when the weather is usually sunny, and in October Seoul’s surrounding hillsides are ablaze with autumn colors. Spring, from April to early June, is another beautiful season, with warm temperatures and cherry blossoms in late April.

Winter is dry but often bitterly cold, with average temperatures in Seoul hovering around zero from December to February, when you appreciate the ondol (under floor heating). But white snow on the temple roofs is very picturesque and it’s a good time to visit if you enjoy skiing, skateboarding or ice-skating. Try to avoid summer as late June to late July is the wet season when Seoul receives 60% of its annual rainfall. Some weeks in August are unpleasantly hot and humid although most places have air-con these days, which makes it more bearable.
Costs

Tipping
Tipping is not necessary in Seoul, although a compulsory 10% service charge is added to the bill at some midrange and all top-end hotels and restaurants. Taxi drivers may surprise visitors by insisting on giving change.

Money
The South Korean unit of currency is the won (W), with W10, W50, W100 and W500 coins. Notes come in denominations of W1000, W5000 and W10,000. The highest value note is worth only US$10 at the current exchange rate, so you will probably have to carry around a thick wad of notes.

The Bank of Korea wants to introduce a W100,000 notes, but so far the government has vetoed it. Recently the won has been strengthening against the US dollar and most other currencies, and this trend is expected to continue, given South Korea’s balance of payments surplus. It is easy enough for foreign residents in Seoul to open a bank account at one of the big banks – just find a clerk who can speak some English and have your passport and alien registration card with you.

ATMs
Automated teller machines (ATMs) in Seoul are a little strange but more and more accept foreign cards. If you have a foreign credit card, you