need to find an ATM with a ‘Global’ sign or the logo of your credit card company. A few Global ATMs have all their instructions in Korean, so you may need help the first time you use one, but most have some English instructions. ATMs can be found outside banks and post offices, and inside deluxe hotels, subway stations, airports, convenience stores and department stores.

ATMs often operate from 9am to 11pm, but some are 24 hours. Restrictions on the amount you can withdraw vary. It can be as low as W100,000 or W300,000 per day, but most have a W700,000 limits. Outside banking hours you may be charged a higher commission.

Changing money
You can use US dollars on American military bases, including the United Service Organizations (USO), at Panmunjeom on the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) tour, at duty-free shops, and in some tourist shops in Itaewon, but otherwise you will need Korean won. Duty-free shops also accept Japanese yen and some other foreign currencies.
Many banks in Seoul offer a foreign- exchange service and there are licensed moneychangers, particularly in Itaewon, that keep longer hours than the banks and provide a faster service but may only exchange cash. As with any shops and hotels that offer to exchange money, compare their rates and commissions with the banks first.
US dollars are easiest to exchange but banks accept any major currency. If you have trouble exchanging a particular currency, try the Korea Exchange Bank (KEB). Traveler’s checks usually have a slightly better exchange rate than cash. Don’t forget to reconvert any surplus won into another currency before you leave the country, as exchanging won outside Korea can be a problem. If you need to reconvert more than US$2000 of won at Incheon airport, you must show receipts for the money.

Before you go

Recommended vaccinations

Travelers are advised to seek medical advice about vaccinations. Specialized travel- medicine clinics are your best source of information. Most vaccines don’t produce immunity until at least two weeks after they’re given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before departure. Travelers should particularly consider immunization against hepatitis A.

Dangers & annoyances

Seoul is a relatively safe city, except when it comes to traffic. Drivers tend to be impatient with kimchi-hot tempers, and most of them, including bus drivers, routinely go through red lights, so don’t be the first or last person to cross over any pedestrian crossing. Vehicles never stop at pedestrian crossings that are not protected by traffic lights so it’s better not to use them. Crossing any road except at traffic lights is not a sensible idea, and jaywalking is illegal. Also keep two eyes out for motorcyclists who routinely speed along pavements and across pedestrian crossings. A high proportion of road deaths (38%) are pedestrians, so take extra care when walking round Seoul.
Drunks in Seoul are better behaved than elsewhere so walking around at 3am shouldn’t pose a problem. The swaying packs of late-night revelers usually pose more of a threat to themselves than to other people. Of course there is always an exception, so arguing with a drunk should be avoided.

Visitors are often surprised to see police in full riot gear, carrying large shields and long batons, streaming out of blue police buses that have their windows covered in protective wire. Student, trade-union, anti-American, environmental and other protests do still occasionally turn violent, although this is much less common than it used to be. Needless