Money

For cash, licensed money changing booths can be found in Talat Sao and a few other locations around town. You can also change at various shops, hotels or markets for no commission but at poor rates. The unofficial moneychangers hanging out near Talat Sao have particularly good rates but count your money carefully.

Banks listed here change cash and travelers checks and issue cash advances against Visa and MasterCard. A couple also has ATMs that work with foreign cards, but it’s often cheaper to get a cash advance manually. All are open 8.30am to 3.30pm Monday to Friday unless otherwise stated.

Dangers & annoyances

By international standards Vientiane has a very low crime rate, but readers’ reports and local anecdotes suggest there’s an increasing risk of getting mugged. Be especially careful around the BCEL Bank on the riverfront where bag-snatchers, usually a two-man team with a motorbike, have been known to strike; common sense should be an adequate defense. Violent crime against visitors is extremely rare.

The repaving of most streets in the centre of town has improved the situation, but manhole covers seem to be given less importance here than you might be used to and at the time of writing there were still more than enough storm water drains and open sewers big enough to swallow you – a thoroughly shitty end to any day.

All businesses in Vientiane are supposed to close by 11.30pm, though some stay opens an extra hour or so. It’s not dangerous to be out beyond midnight but you could be annoyed by military types if you’re away from central Vientiane in an area where falang (Westerners) are seldom seen. If you are somewhere you shouldn’t be (around the airport, for example) you might be escorted back to your hotel.

Land

Bus

Our table gives timetable information. Buses use three different stations in Vientiane, all with some English-speaking staff, and food and drink stands. The Northern Bus Station (260255; Th T2), about 2km northwest of the centre, serves all points north of Vang Vieng, including China, and some buses to Vietnam. Destinations and the latest ticket prices are listed in English.

The Southern Bus Station (740521; Rte 13 South), commonly known as Dong Dok Bus Station or just khíw lot lák káo (Km 9 Bus Station), is 9km out of town and serves everywhere south. Buses to Vietnam will usually stop here.

The final departure point is the Talat Sao bus station (216507), from where desperately slow local buses run to destinations within Vientiane Province, including Vang Vieng, and some more distant destinations, though for these you’re better going to the Northern or Southern stations. The Thai-Lao International Bus also uses this station for its trips to Nong Kai and Udon Thani.

Boat
Passenger boat services between Vientiane and Luang Prabang have become almost extinct as most people now take the bus, which is both faster and cheaper.

Occasional six-passenger héua wái (speedboats) do run from Vientiane to Pak Lai, 115km away, and if you have the cash will go all the way to Luang Prabang – a full day’s trip for at least US$240 for the boat. To charter a speedboat head out to Tha Heua Kao Liaw (Kao Liaw Boat Landing), which is 7.7km west of the Novotel (3.5km west of the fork in the road where Rte 13 heads north) in Ban Kao Liaw. It’s best to go the day before you plan to travel.