boat
The true Thai river transport is the reua hǎang yao (long-tail boat), so-called because the propeller is mounted at the end of a long drive shaft extending from the engine. Long-tail boats can travel at a phenomenal speed. The long-tail boats are a staple of transport on rivers and canals in Bangkok and neighbouring provinces.

Between the mainland and islands in the Gulf of Thailand or Andaman Sea, the standard craft is an all-purpose wooden boat, 8m to 10m long, with a large inboard engine, a wheelhouse and a simple roof to shelter passengers and cargo. Faster, more expensive hovercraft or jetfoils are sometimes available in tourist areas.

car
Cars, jeeps or vans can be rented in Bangkok and large provincial capitals. Thais drive on the left-hand side of the road – most of the time. Other than that just about anything goes, in spite of road signs and speed limits. The main rule of thumb to be aware of is that right of way belongs to the bigger vehicle.

Indicators are often used to warn passing drivers about oncoming traffic. A flashing left indicator means it’s OK to pass, while a right indicator means that someone’s approaching from the other direction.

taxi
Local transport includes taxis, tuk-tuks (motorised rickshaws), săamláw (bicycle rickshaws) and săwngthăew (small pick-ups). Taxis are (mostly) metered in Bangkok and săwngthăew tend to run regular routes, but săamláw, tuk-tuks and taxis outside Bangkok require bargaining and agreement on a fare before departure

bicycle
For travelling just about anywhere outside Bangkok, bicycles are ideal – cheap, nonpolluting and slow enough to allow you to see everything.

Bicycle touring is also a popular way to see the country as most roads are sealed with roomy shoulders. Grades in most parts of the country are moderate; exceptions include the far north, especially Mae Hong Son and Nan Provinces. There is plenty of opportunity for dirt-road and off-road pedalling, especially in the north, so a sturdy mountain bike would make a good alternative to a touring rig. Favoured touring routes include the two-lane roads along the Mekong River in the north and northeast – the terrain is largely flat and the river scenery is inspiring.

You can take bicycles on the train for a little less than the equivalent of one 3rd-class fare. On ordinary buses they’ll place your bike on the roof, and on air-con buses it will be put in the cargo hold.

The 2500-member Thailand Cycling Club (www.thaicycling.com), established in 1959, serves as an information clearing house on biking tours and cycle clubs.

train
Trains are comfortable, frequent, punctual, moderately priced and rather slow. Sleeping berths are a bargain and a wonderfully comfortable way to traverse the countryside.

The State Railway of Thailand (SRT, www.railway.co.th) covers four main lines – the northern, southern, northeastern and eastern. The train is a convenient alternative to buses for the long journey north to Chiang Mai or south to Surat Thani and is ideal for trips to Ayuthaya and Lopburi from Bangkok. Almost all the long-distance trains originate from Bangkok’s Hualamphong station.

The SRT operates passenger trains in three classes. Fares are calculated