little rain, decent sunshine and temperatures in the 24-28°C (75-83°F) range. From November to March, night-time temperatures can drop close to freezing, and snow can block mountain passes, though Pokhara and Kathmandu rarely see more than a few flakes. May and early June are unbearably hot and sticky and rain buckets down most days from May to September. Kathmandu is generally drier than Pokhara at this time of year, while the Terai positively drowns.

Nepal: Events
Nepal’s festive calendar is hectic. Dasain, celebrated nationwide in October, is the most important of all Nepali celebrations and features the biggest animal sacrifice of the year. Running a close second is Tihar (November), when crows, dogs and cows are venerated and everyone offers tika marks and food to friends and relations. Other important Hindu festivals include colourful Holi (March), lively Indra Jatra (September) and Chaitra Dasain (April), which is yet another bad day for animals. Some of the local festivals in the Kathmandu Valley are epic affairs – the Red Machchhendranath Rath Jatra (May-June) in Patan features incredible chariot parades to honour Lord Krishna. Followers of Shiva celebrate Haribodhini Ekadashi (November) and Maha Shivaratri (March) with great pomp at Pashupatinath. As Buddhism is a philosophy rather than a religion, Buddhist festivals are thinner on the ground. However, Losar (Tibetan New Year, held in February) is celebrated with masked chaam dances at Swayambhunath, Bodhnath and Tibetan monasteries across the country. Other important Buddhist feast days include Mani Rimdu (November) in Solu Khumbu and Buddha Jayanti (Buddha’s birthday – held in May) in Kathmandu and Lumbini.

Nepal: Sights

Bodhnath
Address Chabahil Transport taxi Keyword religious/spiritual This is Nepal’s most famous Buddhist monument, a shimmering white stupa topped by a towering golden spire and watched over by the eyes of the Buddha. Thousands of multi-coloured prayer flags flutter overhead and hordes of pilgrims flock here daily to perform the ceremonial circumnavigation of the shrine.

Bodhnath is one of those places that has a tangible spiritual energy. Tibetan pilgrims come here from across Nepal and some measure out the distance around the stupa with their own bodies, throwing themselves to the ground before the stupa in the ultimate act of ritual prostration. Many of the pilgrims are refugees from Tibet and the surrounding shops are crammed with Tibetan antiques and essential household items for Tibetan Buddhists.

Dakshinkali
Transport bus: from Kathmandu – Shahid Gate and City bus station on sacrifice days, or other days bus to Pharping, and walk 1km Hours Tue & Sat
mornings are busiest Web www.dakshinkali.org Keyword religious/spiritual, macabre At the southern end of the Kathmandu Valley, in a dark, somewhat spooky location, stands the temple of Dakshinkali. The temple is dedicated to the six-armed goddess Kali, Shiva’s consort in her most sanguinary incarnation. Twice a week, Nepalese visitors journey here to satisfy her bloodlust.

They bring buffaloes, chickens, ducks, goats, sheep and pigs, which are matter-of-factly dispatched by having their throats slit or heads lopped off. These animals, some still writhing, are then dragged to a nearby stream where they are butchered for a feast at a later date. The blood runs freely every Saturday and especially during the October festival of Dasain when the image of Kali is literally bathed in the stuff.