The October 2004 New York Fashion Week played like a coming out party for Boy Wonder Richard Chai, who, after designing for Marc Jacobs and revamping a tired TSE, was finally able to showcase his talents in a line that bore his name. While that first collection tended towards the minimal, subsequent lines have showcased more intricate, detailed pieces; quilting, cartridge pleats, peplums and origami insets have all been featured, though the overall look remains sophisticated, wearable and quietly feminine. Chai also has a penchant for fabrics and, as was evident in his previous work, muted colors: Grays, whites, tans and pale mint have been favorites for spring, while ivory, eggplant, brown, navy and bottle green dominated a recent fall collection. Silks are mixed with wools, gossamer voile with organza, and twill with georgette for a “futuristic romantic” look.
The Look
Modern designs with old-world detailing like hand stitching, bias tapes and French seams. Leg-elongating pants, fitted moleskin coats with quilted, geometric belts and fine-gauge knits have been crowd favorites.
The Designer
An Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner (and one of People’s 2004 Sexiest Men Alive) Richard Chai burst onto the scene at Marc Jacobs, where he helped launch the Marc by Marc Jacobs line. Having also done time at Donna Karan and Geoffrey Beene, Chai moved from Marc to the Creative Director post at TSE; there, he helped take the fashion house beyond the scope of the basic cardigan. Frequently cited as one of the “new Asian” influences on haute couture (alongside fellow up-and-comers Derek Lam and Peter Som,) Chai launched his epynonymous line in 2004, to industry raves