There are three land crossings to Indonesia: at Entikong, between Kalimantan and Sarawak; at Motoain between West and East Timor; and the road from Jayapura or Sentani (Papua) to Vanimo in PNG. Visa regulations have been fluid (to say the least) of late, so check the need for obtaining a visa in advance before you roll up at the border crossing.

Most of the sea connections are between Malaysia and Sumatra and the vessel of choice is the comfortable high-speed ferry from Penang to Medan. The other main ferry connection is between Dumai (Sumatra) and Malaka (Malacca). Ferries also run from southern Malaysia (Johor Bahru) to the Riau Islands. There are speedboats from east-coast Kalimantan to Sabah in Malaysia.

Getting Around
Domestic air services have been in a state of flux since the economic downturn in the late 1990s. With a few new players entering the market and deregulation of air fares, competition is creeping back into the domestic business. Note that domestic tickets bought overseas in US dollars are about 50% more than if bought in Indonesia in rupiah. It is essential to reconfirm domestic flights in Indonesia, otherwise you may be bumped from the list because of widespread overbooking of flights. Departure tax on domestic flights fluctuates between Rp12000.00 and Rp20000.00 .

Indonesia’s main roads are generally excellently surfaced, with the mainstay of land travel being the ekonomi buses – cheap and cheerful fares that may democratically include chickens, pigs and anything in-between. Next step up is the express bus, which carries the same cargo but gets to the destination sooner; higher-up still are the luxury air-con buses, with all the whistles and bells that a coach can have.

Rail travel is restricted solely to Java and Sumatra. Indonesia’s trains are pretty much a mixed bag: slow, miserable and cheap, or comfortable and expensive. It’s advisable to buy train tickets a day in advance to ensure a seat. Cars, motorbikes and bicycles can be rented in the main cities and tourist centres. There are regular ferries between the various islands, many operated by Pelni (www.pelni.com). Kalimantan and Papua have undeveloped road systems and internal transport is primarily by river or by air.

Local transport includes the ubiquitous bemo (pick-up trucks with rows of seats along each side), opelet (minibuses), bajaj (auto rickshaws), becak (bicycle rickshaws) and dokar (horse-drawn carts); most are ridiculously cheap. Many towns have taxis, but be sure to agree on a fare in advance.

Indonesia: History
Pre-20th-Century History
It is generally believed that the earliest inhabitants of the Indonesian archipelago originated in India or Burma. In 1890, fossils of Java Man ( homo erectus ), some 500,000 years old, were found in east Java. Later migrants (‘Malays’) came from southern China and Indochina, and began populating the archipelago around 3000 BC. Powerful groups such as the Buddhist Srivijaya empire and the Hindu Mataram kingdom appeared in Java and Sumatra towards the end of the 7th century. The last important kingdom to remain Hindu was the Majapahit, which was founded in the 13th century. The subsequent spread of Islam into the archipelago in the 14th century forced the Majapahits to retreat to Bali in the 15th century.

By this time, a strong Muslim empire had developed with its centre at Melaka (Malacca) on the Malay Peninsula. Its influence was shortlived and it fell to the Portuguese in 1511. The Dutch displaced the Portuguese and began making inroads into Indonesia. The Dutch East India Company based in Batavia (Jakarta) dominated the spice trade and took