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claimed around 200 lives in Bali. An extremist group with links to Al-Qaeda was responsible.

Religious violence also plagued the Maluku islands, where Christians and Muslims reached a short-lived peace deal in February 2002. In April 2002, masked gunmen massacred 14 Christian villagers. Fighting between Christians and Muslims has claimed more than 6000 lives since 1999. In Irian Jaya and Aceh, guerrillas have been fighting for independence from Jakarta for decades.

Megawati Sukarnoputri’s presidency deserves credit for restoring social stability and economic growth but was widely condemned as ineffectual in combating rampant institutional corruption. In September 2004, 80% of Indonesian voters turned up to vote in the country’s first direct presidential ballot. Charismatic retired general – and sometime crooner – Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono (who holds an American management degree and is often referred to as SBY) won handsomely.

As the closest country to the epicentre of the earthquake and resulting tsunami in December 2004, Indonesia suffered the most physical damage and loss of human life. It’s estimated that more than 128,000 people were killed and half a million were left homeless, mainly in Aceh and North Sumatra regions. A massive national and international aid operation responded to the tsunami and the affected areas are recovering slowly.

Mother Nature continues to test the resilience of the Indonesians. A devastating earthquake hit Java near the city of Yogyakarta in May 2006, causing thousands more casualties and in July of the same year an offshore earthquake caused a tsunami that ripped into West Java, devastating the area around Pangandaran. Meanwhile a mud-volcano, caused by gas drilling, continues to spew forth mud, displacing thousands near Surabaya.

Since coming to power, SBY has made battling corruption and growing Islamic fundamentalism a priority. Aside from these campaigns, the most successful domestic achievement of his government has been the peaceful resolution of the Aceh conflict, after complex negotiations and decades of bloody strife. But according to some experts, the June 2006 release from prison of radical Muslim cleric Abu Bakar Ba’asyir, who was implicated in the 2002 Bali blasts, may yet cause the president a few headaches. The introduction of an anti-pornography bill into parliament by Islamic parties highlighted the divide between secular and religious forces in Indonesian politics. The proposed law called for restrictions on everything from kissing in public to semi-naked traditional dancing and was only passed in a heavily revised form. President Yudhoyono will need all of his charm and political nous to keep the many voices of his enormous nation working together in harmony.

all info taken from www.lonelyplanet.com

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